Commercial plant extracts may act as antioxidants or pro-oxidants in cosmetic emulsions based on argan oil

Paulina Malinowska , Anna Gliszczyńska-Świgło , Henryk Szymusiak


Cosmetic emulsions containing plant extracts should be tested in a range of temperatures from 5°C to 40°C to be sure that they will be stable during general use by consumers and that plant extracts used as antioxidants do not accelerate oxidative degradation of their oil base. The oxidative stability of argan oil-in-water emulsions containing 1% and 5% commercial acerola, willow, and rose extracts [or 0.01% butylhydroxytoluene (BHT)], stored at 5°C and 20°C for 6 months and at 40°C for 4 weeks, was monitored by the determination of peroxide content. The antioxidant or pro-oxidant activities of extracts or BHT in emulsions were expressed as the protection factor (PF) and inhibition of peroxide formation (Ip). At the end of storage, 5% willow, 0.01% BHT, 1% willow, and 5% acerola were the most protective for emulsions stored at 5°C. At 20°C, the most effective was 0.01% BHT, 5% rose, and 5% acerola. At 40°C, inhibition of peroxide formation calculated for 1% rose, 5% acerola, and 0.01 % BHT was similar. Altogether, the results show that some plant extracts, depending on storage conditions, may act as pro-oxidants, whereas the others can be applied as natural antioxidants instead of synthetic BHT.
Author Paulina Malinowska (WT / KTiAI)
Paulina Malinowska,,
- Department of Technology and Instrumental Analysis
, Anna Gliszczyńska-Świgło (WT / KTiAI)
Anna Gliszczyńska-Świgło,,
- Department of Technology and Instrumental Analysis
, Henryk Szymusiak (WT / KTiAI)
Henryk Szymusiak,,
- Department of Technology and Instrumental Analysis
Journal seriesJournal of Cosmetic Science, ISSN 1525-7886, (A 15 pkt)
Issue year2017
Publication size in sheets0.55
Keywords in Englishplant extracts, antioxidant activity, DPPH, FRAP, TEAC, cosmetic emulsions, oxidative stability, argan oil
ASJC Classification2700 General Medicine
Languageen angielski
Score (nominal)15
Score sourcejournalList
ScoreMinisterial score = 15.0, 28-02-2020, ArticleFromJournal
Publication indicators WoS Citations = 0; Scopus SNIP (Source Normalised Impact per Paper): 2017 = 0.398; WoS Impact Factor: 2018 = 0.318 (2) - 2018=0.526 (5)
Citation count*1 (2020-06-15)
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* presented citation count is obtained through Internet information analysis and it is close to the number calculated by the Publish or Perish system.
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